As we dart along our region’s man-made corridors in our automobiles, few of us realize that we are passing through a precious natural resource called the Western Greenway. Most of us have enjoyed at least one of the special lands within this greenway, and we take for granted that the open spaces we have enjoyed for years will always be there. However, with the hot real estate market of late, many of these parcels have been threatened with development. Ensuring that this green necklace will never be fragmented requires that several measures be taken to protect the parcels within the greenway.

What is a greenway?

"Greenways are corridors of land and water and the natural, cultural and recreational resources they link together." (Creating Greenways: A Citizen’s Guide, by Jennifer A. Howard, Mass. DEM Greenway Program) They are comprised of open space, riverways, forests, farms, and historic structures. They can be simple as a foot trail connecting neighborhood parks, or as complex as an intricate network of trails and roads.

Why are greenways important?

• Environmentally, greenways protect, conserve and link together natural resources and open areas. In doing these, greenways preserve environmentally sensitive areas and protect wildlife and their habitats. By connecting otherwise isolated habitats, they preserve biological diversity.
• Socially and culturally, greenways reconnect people with the land and with one another. They provide recreational opportunities close to home at little or no cost, and act as outdoor classrooms for children and adults. By protecting the areas that create a sense of place, the livability and character of our communities are enhanced. Greenways provide a positive way to shape growth and direct development away from sensitive areas.
• Economically, greenways increase property values by making our cities and towns desirable places to live. They minimize property damage from flooding. By adding to the recreational opportunities for visitors, they attract recreation and tourism based businesses, such as cross-country ski centers.

Where is the Western Greenway?

This swath of green space stretches for six miles beginning in Belmont and Lexington, and looping through Waltham as far south as Beaver Street. Starting at the north end on Belmont Hill, a hiker can walk through the 87-acre Massachusetts Audubon Society Habitat Sanctuary, and cross Concord Avenue to the 125 acres of McLean Hospital land designated for preservation. From this spot you can get a good view of the greenway as far as Mackerel Hill in Waltham. Crossing Mill Street in Belmont, a hiker can stroll through Rock Meadow, which is Town of Belmont conservation land. This meadow provides crucial habitat for many species that are rapidly disappearing as forests and development encroach on former farm land. The hiker can also follow Beaver Brook to the MDC Beaver Brook Reservation. Located at the intersection of Trapelo Road, Waverley Oaks Road and Mill Street, this park was the first acquisition of the Metropolitan Park system in 1893, and was the site of colonial mills. The park features two manmade mill ponds, waterfalls, and magnificent trees, as well as picnic and recreation areas. Located just north of Rock Meadow is the Belmont-Lexington Beaver Brook Conservation area, a large wetlands along Concord Avenue.

Crossing Beaver Brook at Rock Meadow, the hiker enters the former Metropolitan State Hospital. Much of the open space here will become a 240-acre MDC reservation. Several miles of old carriage roads loop through a variety of habitats: cattail marshes, red maple swamps, mature oak-hickory forests, vernal pools, new forests, and open meadows. Because of the diverse ecosystems, this area is a good place to observe a variety of wildlife, including species of special concern: wood frogs and painted turtles. On the west side of the hospital at the end of Marguerite Avenue is West Meadow, a large "quaking" bog, which is cris-crossed with paths, enabling hikers to walk across what would otherwise be a dangerous trek.

Leaving the Met State property on its west side, the hiker crosses Woburn (Walnut) Street, to the Olympus Hospital (formerly Middlesex County Hospital). Located in Lexington and Waltham, this 36-acre site includes a variety of woods and meadows with hiking paths, and connects to state-owned wetlands behind Falzone Field. The historic Wellington House is located here along Trapelo Road (just west of the fire station). Built in 1780 by William Wellington, whose ancestor settled in the area in 1630, the house is a fine example of Georgian architecture. Olympus Hospital is in the process of selling this land, and the future of the open space and house is in imminent danger.

The hiker can also leave the Met State property on the south side at Mackerel Hill (the hill in back of the old Gaebler unit, with the water tower on top), and cross Trapelo Road to the Fernald Center. Running along the western border of the Fernald Center, adjacent to the former Army Corps of Engineers site, is a strip of land with trails. The open space at the Fernald Center is crucial in linking the greenway to the Beaver Street properties. The Fernald Center is still in active use by the Dept. of Mental Retardation, but changes in treatment and housing options have reduced the client census. This property includes Owl Hill, a 250-foot elevation between Trapelo Road and Waverley Oaks Road. The hill is largely undeveloped on its north and south slopes, and is used for sledding by Waltham children. There are several streams running through the 180 acres of the Fernald Center, and they eventually flow into Lawrence Meadows.

At the southwest corner of the Fernald Center is the City of Waltham Forest Street Recreation Area, originally part of a larger parcel deeded to the city by the estate of Cornelia Warren. This 11-acre parcel is located along Forest Street between the former Army Corps of Engineers site and the Girl Scouts’ Cedar Hill Reservation. A stream draining from Mount Enoch (location of the Northeast Elementary School) crosses through the site, and connects with Clematis Brook. This wetland habitat is protected under state law, since a species of special concern, painted turtles, has been found here.

Along the southern border of the Fernald Center are two more parcels that belonged to Cornelia Warren: the Patriot Trail Girl Scouts’ Cedar Hill Reservation and the University of Massachusetts’ Lawrence Meadows. A hiker can trek along this border without entering the Girl Scout camp. Cedar Hill is fenced for the safety of the children camping there, but the reservation also acts as an animal corridor within the greenway. The Cedar Hill reservation includes Clematis Brook, a spring-fed pond, diverse plant and tree species, and the 1730 Isaac Mixer house. The 75-acre camp has offered generations of girls from around Boston an opportunity to observe and learn about wildlife, sit around the campfire toasting marshmallows, and camp out overnight in the woods.

On the eastern side of Cedar Hill, at the intersection of Waverley Oaks Road and Beaver Street is a large marsh called Lawrence Meadows, named for Frederick Lawrence, the farmer who once owned it. Bequeathed to the University of Massachusetts by Cornelia Warren, this wetlands area performs an essential function in retaining flood waters. With streams from Cedar Hill and Owl Hill draining into it, the cattail marsh and bog provides a habitat for many species, such as red-winged blackbirds. Clematis Brook crosses under Waverley Oaks Road here and merges with Beaver Brook.

Situated on the western side of the Girl Scout camp is another Cornelia Warren bequest, the 15-acre Waltham Woods. Owned by the City of Waltham, the peak of Cedar Hill here offers hikers fine views to the south. Waltham science teachers have brought their classes here to observe the red-tail hawks nesting in the trees. Visitors can access the site through the Girl Scout reservation. In several occasions in the past, this site has been threatened with development by Bentley College and a privately owned hockey area.

Across Beaver Street from the Cedar Hill Reservation is Cornelia Warren Field, bequeathed to the City of Waltham and used as a softball field. Adjacent to Cornelia Warren Field is the University of Massachusetts Field Station. Until a few years ago, the Extension Service of the Agricultural School was located along Beaver Street. The farm land is still used by a variety of non-profit groups, such as the Rose Society and the Day Lily Society. 5 acres of the land are farmed by the Waltham Fields Community Farm, which grows organic vegetables for hunger relief organizations, and provides educational programs about farming to school groups. Several more acres are used by the Waltham Community Gardens, which rents land to any Waltham resident for planting flowers and vegetables. This group offers a much-needed opportunity to garden for the large percentage of apartment dwellers in the city. The University of Massachusetts is reviewing the use of this site as part its overall master plan. If the state is serious about saving dwindling farmland in Massachusetts, it could begin by retaining this land in its current use.

Running parallel to Beaver Street is Chester Brook, a perennial stream which supported mills in several locations along its path in the past. Beginning at Hardy Pond, the brook runs south along Lexington Street, turns east and runs along Beaver Street, and merges with Beaver Brook near Linden Street, an area prone to severe flooding. Near the current location of the Northgate Apartments stood a grist mill built by Thomas Rider in 1680, and later Moses Mead’s 1790 mill (Waltham’s first industry) for manufacturing wooden farm tools. There were also mills and small ponds located at the Lyman estate.

Following Chester Brook west past Bentley College, the hiker comes to the Lyman house, designed by Samuel McIntyre in 1793, and owned by the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities. Located at the rotary at Beaver Street and Lyman Street, the 37-acre estate includes the oldest greenhouse (dating to 1803) in the country and is open to the public. The 18th century English naturalist-style grounds with beautiful specimen trees and gardens are also open to the public. About 15 years ago, SPNEA considered selling the Lyman Estate, but eventually decided against this action.

Crossing Beaver Street, the hiker passes the site of the first Waltham public meeting house, and Gentleman’s Way, the original Beaver Street. The hiker can then enter the 134-acre Robert Treat Paine estate, which is owned by the City of Waltham and open to the public. The hiker can stroll the handicapped-accessible trails, view the house designed by H.H. Richardson, and admire the grounds planned by Frederick Law Olmstead. There are many mature specimen trees on the grounds, as well as rhododendron and azaleas.

Adjacent to the Paine estate is the landlocked Chesterbrook Woods which was acquired by the City of Waltham in 2001. Chesterbrook Woods, formerly known as Coleman/Stanton, was once planned for development. With no way to access the site by road, the land has remained undisturbed. With wetlands draining into Chester Brook, the wooded property adds significantly to the size and value of the Paine estate grounds, and provides a vital link to the Chester Brook corridor.

Beginning at Hardy Pond, the Chester Brook corridor and associated wetlands run parallel to and under Lexington Street. The brook runs along the west side of Lexington Street, is culverted at the Wal-Lex shopping center and emerges from the culvert on the east side of Lexington Street at Lake Street. Cattail marshes associated with the brook line the east side of Lexington Street in front of the Kennedy Middle School, the YMCA property, and Bishop’s Forest Condominiums.

From the back of the Chesterbrook Apartments (across from the Wal-Lex Center on Lexington Street), the hiker can enter a 26-acre, varied terrain of woods and wetlands, owned by Our Lady Comforter of the Afflicted parish. Once known as "Sam Stearns’ woodlot," this area was described in 1858 as having been wooded for many decades, and full of wildlife. An 1830 map of Waltham shows a substantial, wooded area in this region. Using the parcel as a woodlot, the Stearns family probably culled out trees, but never clear cut the woods, making these one of the oldest woods in Waltham. Middlesex County took the land by eminent domain in the 1930s, and recently transferred the land to Our Lady’s parish. The parish is now actively considering selling the land for development. Connecting to the woods around Waltham’s Northeast Public School, the Our Lady’s parcel contains a mature woods with a fern-covered floor, pine and oak covered ridges, a pond and cattail marsh, and a cascading stream that runs into Chester Brook. Hiking paths originating from Northgate Apartments and Chesterbrook Apartments weave through these woods, thereby attesting to its value to the adjacent residents. The city is currently reviewing options for acquiring this site.

Crossing Trapelo Road at Our Lady’s parish and walking a short distance on Bow Street, the hiker can enter a state-owned area woods and wetlands. Bow Street continues on as an unpaved road which circumvents marshes and comes back out to Trapelo Road at the entrance to the Olympus Hospital. Lined with the ruined foundations of two colonial farms and an old stonewall, this road was once the original Trapelo Road. The area also contains a pond situated at the back of the Glen Meadow Apartments. Laced with hiking paths that traverse meadows, woods and marshes, this section completes the "necklace" of greenspace by connecting with the Olympus Hospital grounds.

What can we do to protect the Western Greenway?

Advocate for official recognition of the Western Greenway by our city councils and boards of selectmen, and by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Management Greenways Program. A greenway is not a legal or zoning restriction, but rather a concept, and a planning tool. Getting the support of municipal governments and land owners is helpful in establishing the legitimacy of the greenway.

Educate the various property owners or guardians about the significance of their parcel within the greenway. Since much of the land is owned by public or non-profit institutions, pointing out the value of the natural resources on their property, and the even greater value of a greenway may help deter adverse plans. Also, educate other state departments, such as the Executive Office of Environmental Affairs, who can influence the plans of state agencies such as the Dept. of Mental Retardation or the University of Massachusetts.

Push for the preservation of open space when changes in the use of public land are proposed. Much of the property within the Western Greenway is publicly owned land and zoned for conservation. However, crucial greenway parcels can be lost unless the public remains interested and vocal about the value of public land as open space. For instance, on two occasions in the last two decades, the City of Waltham has seriously considered selling or leasing the Waltham Woods for development. Rather than tear down and reuse existing buildings at the Fernald Center, the state left the buildings vacant and rotting dangerously, and instead built new buildings that consumed open space and filled in wetlands. Over the last two decades, various undesirable plans were proposed for the Metropolitan State Hospital, including an MWRA sewage sludge dump and sludge processing plant, and a cemetery. Through the efforts of a Waltham city councillor, the Met State wetlands had previously been protected under a Massachusetts Natural Resources Act, which helped defeat these proposals. Heeding the public’s call for open space preservation, Waltham, Lexington and Belmont thwarted the Commonwealth’s original plans to develop a large portion of the Met State, when the land was declared surplus. These examples demonstrate that active citizen involvement in the planning process for publicly owned land is essential to protect the natural resources.

Work toward obtaining added protection using zoning laws, open space plans, natural resources laws, and conservation easements and restrictions. On the local level, placing added conservation restrictions on publicly owned land will relieve pressure on public officials by developers who seek to purchase or lease public land and request the related zoning variances. On the state level, conservation restrictions will give state environmental agencies added leverage in dealing with other state agencies who want to develop state-owned lands. Working with private owners to point out tax advantages of conservation easements and restrictions may convince the owners to leave part or all of their land undeveloped.

Support the efforts of municipal governments to purchase endangered open space parcels within the greenway. Waltham is considering using the hotel tax to pay the debt service for an open space fund, to be used to purchase endangered parcels. The city is considering a purchasing the Stanton-Coleman property and/or the Our Lady’s parcel. Let the councillors and mayor know of your support.

Conclusion

Many of us have enjoyed the benefits of the six-mile, green swath through Belmont, Lexington and Waltham, but we should not take its presence for granted. Even publicly owned land can be lost to development. An official greenway designation by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Management would help protect the many ecologically valuable parcels within the Western Greenway. Although the designation does not confer legal protection on land within a greenway, the status would particularly help protect the large state-owned parcels. It would also aid in acquiring state funds for creating a trail system. Obtaining the official recognition requires the broad support of owners and citizens of Waltham, Belmont and Lexington.

For more information about greenways or to obtain a copy of Creating Greenways: A Citizen’s Guide, telephone Jennifer Howard, Greenways Coordinator, Massachusetts Department of Environmental Management, at (413) 586-8706, ext. 18.